I’ve been researching on 18th Century clothing for a while and have read some really good books and some really bad ones.  Upon joining a group you’ll be advised to read various books that talk about the clothing in good detail but unless you are lucky enough to see the clothing yourself it does not help you when picking out the various fabrics to sew your clothing.  I hope this  article will help you in picking the fabric(s) and figuring out what clothing you can do yourself.

Picking the Fabric

When you’re doing Colonial to American Revolution history the best way to go is to go with the plant and animal fibers.  Some of the best fibers to create your clothing are Linen, Wool and Cotton.  In regards to the American Civil War you might be able to get away with using cotton and wool. For men’s uniform from the F& I War all the way to the American Civil War wool should always be used.   As always do your research.

In regards to choosing fabric colors for your clothing this can be a little tricky and sometimes confusing.  Back in Colonial times up  to the American Revolution colors in a person’s clothing demonstrated how much wealth a person processed.  Not to say that the poor could not afford as bright fabrics as the rich.  This is simply not true.  To learn more about dyes it is always a good idea to learn about the process of dying cloth during the time period you’re interested in portraying.  With that said it is always best at first to use the basic palettes of red, green, brown and yellow.  You can use blue fabrics only if you’re interested in portraying a more wealthy persona.  If you want to use blue in a middle to lower class persona only use it when finding ribbons for your hat(s).  In regards to the American Civil War you will have to do your own research since this is really not my area of expertise.  But knowing a little bit about the American Civil War and with the invention of the sewing machines and cloth factories they probably had much more colors used in the material then they had during the early years in American history.

Where to buy fabric?
96th Store House:  http://www.96storehouse.com/
Fabric Store: http://www.fabrics-store.com/

Where to buy patterns?
Burnley & Trowbridge Co: http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/
Wm. Booth Draper: http://wmboothdraper.com/

18th Century  Women Sewing Guide:

Easy Construction:
Handkerchief – lightweight linen or white cotton (cotton is more flexible) use 1 yard of fabric.
Apron – medium to heavy linen or wool (wool burns slower than linen) use 1- 2 yards of fabric.
Petticoats –   medium to heavy linen or wool and use 3 – 6 yards of fabric.
Pockets – medium to heavy linen or cotton and you only need 1/2 to 1 yard of fabric.

Moderate Construction:
Short Gown – medium to heavy linen and use 2 – 3 yards of fabric.
Bed Gown- medium to heavy linen and use 3 – 4 yards of fabric.
Shift – white plain linen or white cotton and use 3 yards of fabric.
Cap – lightweight linen or white cotton and need 1/2 to 1 yard of fabric.

Advanced Construction:
Stays –  linen or worsted canvas, kid binding tape and cane. You’ll need 1 1/2 – 3 yards of fabric.
Gown – linen, wool or silk and use 3 – 5 yards of fabric.

Need to Purchase:
Straw Hat | Stockings | Shoes | Eating Equipment (wooden bowl & spoon, fork & knife and a ceramic cup  | Sewing kit | Basket (acts as a women’s purse during the American Revolution.

Other Resources:
Great Pattern Review: http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/index.html
Costume in Detail: 1730-1930: by Nancy Bradfield
Had on and took with her: clothing in female runaway servant ads:  by Sue Huesken and Karen Mullian
Tidings from the 18th Century by Beth Gilgun
What Shall I Wear?:  by Mara Riley.
Women’s Dress during the American Revolution : by the Brigade of the American Revolution